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June 09 - Bee story April 21 - Of dandelions and Camembert March 12 - The secret shops of the Palais Royale. February 01 - The pleasures of winter September 30 - Pigeon September 10 - Health care à la française June 11 - La Ferme aux Escargots June 04 - Nest of flowers April 10 - Potager passion March 25 - Pépette II--The sequel January 27 - Meditations on mustard January 14 - Provence wears it well...snow, that is. November 20 - Our part-time dog November 11 - A new university for the 21st century October 14 - Mushroom madness September 04 - Road trip with Paula Wolfert June 18 - The Pottery of Sampigny June 02 - Le Temps des Cerises May 20 - It's that intoxicating time again... April 23 - Where la vigne is queen March 27 - The joys of la cueillette February 14 - Bringing in the blue January 16 - Bonne année 2008! November 07 - Fire at the heart of the home October 19 - Manna from heaven... September 19 - My neighbor's lamb July 26 - The way to a woman's heart... June 18 - Guinée rocks the rue de Logelbach May 15 - A passion for farigoule April 16 - Sowing the seeds of content April 04 - Bruno's world March 14 - Putting down roots February 14 - La Fête de la Truffe December 20 - An olive branch November 30 - Happiness is a hot chestnut. October 31 - Uncovering the soul of a mas October 02 - High horsepower September 21 - The magic of Moustiers June 21 - The cencibelles of Cliousclat May 22 - In possession of a potager... April 26 - A spring morning amble through Aix-en-Provence March 20 - The staff of life en pays Berbère March 08 - Why I love my quincaillerie February 22 - Le pays de Forcalquier February 14 - Valentine surprise in Verona February 06 - La Truffe December 20 - 12/20/2005. La Source December 01 - 12/01/2005. The pool at the Club Waou November 26 - 11/26/2005. Fall Trilogy III--Le Chemin de Randonnée November 23 - 11/23/2005. Fall trilogy II November 21 - 11/21/2005. Fall Trilogy I November 15 - 11/15/2005. Jammin' November 09 - 11/09/2005. Civil unrest in France October 31 - 10/31/2005. Flu season October 10 - 10/10/2005. Our own little piece of Provence October 04 - 10/04/2005. China--a window on the future? July 26 - 7/26/2005. Elegy for a potager July 07 - 7/7/2005. La Bonne Etape June 27 - 6/27/2005. Our royal tourne-broche June 22 - 6/22/2005. La dermite des prés June 13 - 6/13/2005. A spring foray in the Pyrenees May 16 - 5/16/2005. Lights, camera, action! April 28 - 4/28/2005. April in Paris April 06 - 4/6/2005. Vinegar porn March 06 - 3/6/2005. The miraculous monarch February 16 - 2/16/2005. Valise de rêve December 15 - 12/15/2004. Diversity for all December 09 - 12/9/2004. Fécamp--Destination gourmande November 24 - L'Ostau de Baumanière November 16 - Rice, bulls, and gypsy caravans November 15 - 11/15/2004. And the winner is... October 27 - 10/27/2004. Lunch heaven October 13 - 10/13/2004. Oh-so-French pharmacies October 05 - 10/5/2004. Vézelay--la colline éternelle September 07 - 9/7/2004. Where in the world... July 15 - 7/15/2004. Road trip through Auvergne June 02 - 6/2/2004. La fête du pain normand April 26 - 4/26/2004. A sun-drenched weekend in Collioure April 14 - 4/14/2004. Denis' Easter card April 01 - Lights, camera, action! March 29 - My life as an enzyme March 18 - Life in a food-crazed nation March 05 - Marabout February 26 - Tale of two towers February 23 - La Fête des Violettes February 05 - My precious levain January 28 - Surviving the salon January 13 - La Poste and I December 01 - Home alone November 19 - Those dirty French! November 03 - Three years at 10 rue de Logelbach October 20 - A Paris weekend September 16 - Paris on wheels September 03 - The sleepy magic of the marais Poitevin July 29 - Dejeuner sur la (mauvaise) herbe July 23 - Blue is the color... July 10 - My famous hat June 10 - 06/10/2003. Dr. Death and the Giant Lobster June 04 - 6/4/2003. Summer in a skillet May 13 - 5/12/2003. Oysters for Breakfast. April 29 - 4/29/2003 Dateline Dakar March 27 - 3/27/2003. Le Moulin d'Arbalète March 17 - 3/17/2003. A spring day in the Pays de Caux February 26 - 2/26/2003. Residents of Nice take to the streets... February 14 - Some winter violets for turbulent times February 03 - Ramblings on the week's news from l'Hôtel de Ville January 20 - The mother of all vinegars January 07 - "Brrrrr...Il fait froid!" December 11 - La crise de foie November 20 - War of the waters November 13 - The weekend of three tails October 30 - Gender issues September 18 - Figs, green walnuts, and pêches de vigne September 18 - La rentrée August 01 - Paris in August July 25 - The Gymnase Club July 15 - French ads June 27 - Sojourn to Ardèche May 23 - France ushers in spring with muguet des bois. May 23 - The Concours Lépine--or the French at their most eccentric April 19 - Going to the polls in Paris April 08 - The bounty of Belleville March 28 - First the poubelle, now the tri... March 15 - For women only March 07 - French Country comes to Paris February 21 - Paris underground February 15 - Everything's on soldes! January 31 - A breath of spring January 25 - Paris...the soul of discretion January 16 - Winter rolling toward spring January 03 - Bonne Année!! December 10 - Christmas roses November 28 - Wild mushroom season in Paris November 16 - Leaving home November 06 - The Camondo cuisine October 23 - Paris, Post-September 11 October 17 - 10/17/2001. Paris Mayor Says NO to Doggie Turds October 05 - 10/05/2001. What am I doing here? October 05 - Why I love my butcher October 04 - A dog's life in Paris.

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11/09/2005. Civil unrest in France

While I usually steer clear of anything that smells like an editorial in these pages, enough of you, my readers, have written expressing a desire to know my perspective on the civil strife that is dominating the worldwide news of France these days. So rather than waxing rhapsodic about some detail or other of life here, I'll try tackle this difficult subject. At least I hope I can shed some light on some of the pertinent background.

First, let me say to those of you have expressed concern for my safety, thank you--but I am not at risk. Let me also admit that I live a privileged life. I am in Paris' 17th arrondissement, practically next door to Parc Monceau--a very quiet neighborhood. However, I often walk through very diverse parts of Paris, and in no way would the current events make me change my course. Tomorrow morning I will take the metro to an appointment with my rheumatologist, in the northeast suburbs. I am not in the least worried.

If you've never lived here, it's hard to imagine just how safe a city this is. We have an alarm system on our apartment, for instance, but it's just a system that makes a big noise if a burglar would ever break in when we're not here. It is not a system we could turn on, even if we wanted to, while we are inside the apartment. A friend visiting from the U.S. commented on her surprise that the alarm wasn't armed when we were inside. Denis and I looked at each other, each seeing question marks floating in cartoon balloons over the other's head. The idea had never occurred to us.

Of course non-hunting guns of every kind are against the law here. And a perusal of French films, as compared to American films, will quickly show you that the culture of violence as we Americans know it doesn't exist here. Even the suburbs where the present altercations are occurring are not anywhere near as keyed up nor as burned out (poor choice of metaphor) as New York or L.A. ghettos. Notwithstanding, the recent events have been violent--but primarily that violence has been directed against property and not people.



The youths burning vehicles and having altercations with police are mainly the children of immigrants from Africa--primarily the north, but also sub-Saharan. They live in the grim suburbs surrounding the shining city of Paris like a sullen halo. There is absolutely no doubt that these are troubled neighborhoods, with desolate housing projects and severe unemployment. At first glance it is easy to surmise that the current unrest is rightly due to lack of opportunity and racial discrimination.

But as I see it, the problem is much more complex than it appears, especially as interpreted in the media. Of course, there is racism in France, as there is, unhappily, virtually everywhere. France has a very different approach to racial issues than the U.S., and it's an approach that is often difficult or impossible to fathom for the nonFrench. Here in France, as an immigrant, you are expected to 'become French.' The official attitude is that, if you come here, it is to become part of the French nation.

Thus, while culturally France celebrates cultural diversity more than any country I know, when it comes to matters of state, everyone is French. There are, amazingly to an American mind, no statistics available for example on the number of citizens of African descent because it is forbidden to demand race or ethnic origin on any official document. To do so, from the French point of view (which it must be recalled was influenced by the horrors of the Second World War), would create the possibility of discrimination. Ironically, France strives more to "melt" people of differing cultures among its citizenry than the U.S., which, while calling itself the melting pot, in fact encourages ethnic groups to remain unmelted.



Of course, this policy doesn't mean that racism doesn't exist here. Many would claim that "Frenchness" just gets pushed down to the level of the unsaid but understood. Hence all the discussion in the newspapers of how hard it is to get ahead if your name is Mahmoud instead of Jean-Pierre. My personal impression, having now lived here for 5 years, is that there is markedly more interracial ease here than in the U.S. Racial strata seem much more mixed up--at least within Paris proper--than I am used to seeing in the U.S.

France is also a staunchly secular country. This stance is at the heart of the famous "head scarf" ban. Ostentious signs of Christianity are also banned in public schools. You can agree or disagree, but perhaps, in light of the fact that France is home to several million Muslims, the growth of Islamic extremism on the one hand and Christian extremism on the other--maybe secularization isn't such a bad thing!

France has long accepted large numbers of immigrants (of which I am one!), historically from its African colonies. Now, with membership in the EU growing, allowing more or less free movement of citizens among member countries, immigrant populations have been swelling even further.

We now arrive at what I see as the crux of the problem with France being a country of social entitlements unimaginable to the average American. With the archetypal European social model--high taxes, a highly regulated labor market, and huge public welfare and social security systems, including of course essentially free health care for all--France is an extremely attractive country to which to emigrate. But these same social benefits and the rigidly structured economy that goes with them are being taxed beyond their capacity. France has become a country where the disincentives to work--in the form of guaranteed minimum income, housing and food subsidies, and so forth, and the disincentives to hire--in the form of crippling social charges to employers and penalties for firing employees, have combined to paralyse the economy.

So, yes! The youth in the suburbs of Paris are unable to find work. So are the young people in other parts of France, many of whom don't even bother trying to work as the state pays them so very well not to. The current unrest and riots are rooted for me not so much in problems of racial discrimination but in the all-pervasive economic problems tormenting France right now.

The French have a long tradition of complaining and being angry. R”ler is the French verb meaning to--well, bitch. Well, r”ler is a national pastime in this country where everyone is constantly jostling for position at the seemingly inexhaustible breast of Mother France. Scarcely a day passes without news of some group or other being en colère, or angry, which can usually be interpreted as news of yet another strike. The French also have a long and unfortunate tradition that can best be summed up as that of les droits acquis--acquired rights. What that means in practice is that all a politician has to do to trigger a strike is to mention the idea of, say, capping retirement benefits for public transportation workers, for example, for the entire system to go on strike. Unfortunately, the young men in the suburbs of Paris are using a more violent means of expressing their colère.

France is a country that guarantees a minimum income to all its citizens (including the young men burning cars), gives them the best health care in the world, invests proportionately more in public schools in disadvantaged area than in wealthier ones, and where college education is free. It's a country where I have several times seen marches of "sans papiers" (illegal immigrants) being protected by police cordons. It's a country where the slightest sanction is subjected to an agony of self-examination (the recently locally imposed curfews in troubled neighborhoods--a mild measure by any standard--immediately raised a hue and cry because it relied on a law used during the war in Algeria). France is a country which, if anything, is in danger of destroying itself through good intentions.

What's needed in my opinion is a moderate dose of liberalization to free up the economy and create employment for these young people, and some moderate social changes in general that make it more attractive to work than to become wards of those who do work, and pay prohibitively high taxes to pay for those who don't. I can only hope that French politicians find the courage to make some changes soon--no matter how much colère ensues from their constituencies. The cure for what is ailing France is a healthy dose of souplesse--the flexibility to build a solution that enables the French social model to survive in a form that maintains France's republican ideals but is adapted to the stresses of the century.












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About Paris Postcard
Here's where I share the frustrations, humor, and sometimes almost heartbreaking beauty of daily life from the perspective of an American expatriate living in Paris. I'm writing to you exactly as I write to my family and friends, so what you read here is usually not about gardening. Rather, these weekly postcards are a way for you to get to know me, and I hope, to occasionally laugh out loud--both with me, and sometimes at me. Barbara Wilde